Friday 8 April 2016

my dream offroad ebike built up from scratch





Although weight will suck a big problem with every ebike build is bicycle tyres are not really suitable and especially knobby versions.  They just get eaten too quickly.

The next option is to put a pitbike tyre on a bicycle wheel or just use the whole pitbike wheel as the starting point since it will be strong and the freewheels don't cut it on bicycles anyway for the amount of power we want to run.

The issues are the widths, axles etc.




12"  12 x 1.85 - 32 Spoke Rim, 7.5" (76mm) Wave Rotor Brake Disc ,39 Tooth 420 Sprocket, Kenda Carlsbad 80-100 - 12" Tire, Accepts 15mm Axle
Since most these bikes take a 420 sprocket it may be a good choice to go with a 19mm jackshaft with a keyed 12t 420 sprocket with something like pillow blocks.


http://www.starproducts.com.au/products/jackshaft-kit-drive-shaft-19mm-12-tooth-41-pitch-sprocket-pillow-blocks/

The front end box would be designed to take something like 5 of these.  At 20s 72v nominal 50a is more than enough to rip through extremely steep terrain.

a 4s pack is 200 x 90 x 40mm so times that by 5 and you have a square battery box of 
20cm x 20cm with a width between the legs of less than 10cm!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80906__Multistar_High_Capacity_4S_20000mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack_AU_Warehouse_.html

I do like this adapter for a freewheel and disc brake holes













I wonder what kind of geometry I could make out of carbon.  

Monday 7 March 2016

Mid drives are better off road

Mid drive's are supposedly so great off road.  Sure if you are running motors capable of human power just helping you along.  However, at more serious power levels to climb those big mountains so that  you can enjoy the downhill on the other side there are simpleton generalizations made by those who have no experience in off road riding with both high powered hubs and high powered mid drives.

Please note before reading anymore that this article doesn't discuss bikes powered through anything other than through the common freewheeling bottom bracket.  (there are bikes designed to work without freewheeling mechanisms which I do not comment on here because I have not tried them)

I have proven that you can climb absolutely any angle that traction will allow without overheating with a simple bafang in the right gearing.    Even at about 1kw get a big enough rear sprocket and they are yours if you are happy to go slowly like a goat.

I wanted to do away with the low speed.  I was promised that the LR big block for example was at least 3 times more capable at doing what the bafang could do.  As a result, I got one and put it to the test.

I have broken almost every part on the kit and my bike related to the drive line.  I am not concerned so much about breaking the bike because I had been warned.  However, breaking the kit that holds the motor to the bike is another issue.  The kit cannot handle the power the motor can generate.

For all those who say a high powered mid drive is the answer:
Does anyone say anything about the power pulling on the chain twisting the swingarm?
Does anyone say anything about the chain dancing around under load?
These are two serious issues which can cost a lot of money in less than a second.